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There are two factors here. One is the distance from saddle to handlebars, but the other is the effective angle of the seat tube. I.e. not the tube itself, but the angle of the line between cranks and saddle.

You'll sit at a "comfortable" position relative to the cranks and then lean forward to the handlebars, rather than assume a posture and see where you meet the saddle.

So there's the point at which you contact the saddle and the angle your body assumes relative to the saddle. If you move the saddle back, you may also have to tilt it a bit to compensate, or even up/down, given that you're not moving it along the arcs involved.

Plus, there's shape. You and the old saddle have come to an arrangement that's mutually acceptable. You need to negotiate further with the new one.

After 40 miles, I start feeling in the knees.